The crisp autumn air of Hokkaido enveloped us as we arrived in Sapporo. Gathering at the hotel, we buzzed with excitement as we checked in for our upcoming adventure. After savouring our first taste of Japan’s culinary delights, we set out for the Sapporo Beer Museum. A testament to the region’s prehistoric past, its entrance was guarded by towering skeletons of a mammoth and a Naumann’s elephant.
We then drove to Otaru, stopping briefly at a chocolate factory shop before boarding stately ‘Le Soléal.’ Greeted by our Captain’s welcoming handshake, we settled into our floating haven for the next 12 days. As we set sail, the twinkling lights of Otaru’s harbour, visible from every restaurant deck, painted the night sky.
Our journey through Japan began in the quaint port city of Otaru, where ‘Le Soleal’ docked for the night. A group of us explored the historic, elegant Aoyama Villa, a beautifully preserved mansion dating back to the prosperous herring fishing era. As we wandered through the intricately decorated rooms, admiring the exquisite woodwork and lacquerware, we took in views of the surrounding gardens through original hand-blown glass windows.
Our next stop was a sake distillery in Otaru, where we learned the art of sake brewing. From the careful selection of premium rice to the delicate fermentation process, we gained a deep appreciation for the craftsmanship behind this beloved beverage. A tasting session followed, showcasing the diverse flavours of various sakes and highlighting the artistry that goes into each unique creation. We then took in panoramas from the observation deck, perched high above the sea, marvelling at the lighthouse, rugged coastline and occasional glimpse of playful sea lions. Enhancing the experience, our guide serenaded us with a traditional herring sailors’ work song.
We spent the remainder of the afternoon along the charming Otaru Canal, strolling its picturesque banks lined with historic warehouses. The once-industrial buildings were transformed into quaint shops and inviting cafes, their reflections shimmering in the tranquil waters.
Some of us ventured back to Sapporo to explore its bustling seafood markets. After partaking in a self-grilled barbecue feast and sampling local brews at the Sapporo Beer Garden, we paid a serene visit to Hokkaido Shrine, which enshrines four kami, including the soul of Emperor Meiji.
At the harbor, our memorable send-off was a traditional Kagami Biraki ceremony. Accompanied by a taiko drum band, the festive event involved opening a sake barrel, followed by a tasting. As ‘Le Soleal’ departed the harbor, our photography coach lent valuable insight, inspiring us to capture the beauty of our upcoming journey. The evening culminated in a Captain’s welcome cocktail party, where we met our friendly, professional crew.
As our ship glided southward, sheltered by Hokkaido, the day began with a soothing, well-attended yoga session. Our resident botanist then talked about Japanese gardens, highlighting the unique design principles that set them apart from their Western counterparts. Drawing parallels to calligraphy, he explained how Japanese gardeners masterfully employ positive and negative space, infusing their creations with symbolic meaning that’s often rooted in religious belief.
As ‘Le Soleal ‘navigated the turbulent Tsugaru Strait, losing the protection of the land, we learned of impending strong winds. Despite the rough seas, the ship’s advanced stabilization system ensured a smooth journey, so we fully enjoyed a lecture on Japanese culture and religion.
The afternoon brought a delightful change of pace as our local guides led a hands-on origami workshop. Laughter filled the lounge as we created colourful paper cranes, roses and frogs. Our art historian concluded the day with a discussion on Japanese art prints, with insight into the lives of geishas during the samurai era.
As the sun set, we eagerly anticipated tomorrow’s adventures on Sado Island.
As we drew closer to Sado-ga-shima, the island’s rugged coastline — dotted with a handful of quaint buildings — unfolded like a watercolour painting. The gentle lapping of waves against the shore and the warm, inviting breeze made it a perfect day to dock at Ogi Harbor. A welcoming group of locals greeted us with traditional dances, their colorful costumes a contrast against the island’s serene backdrop.
We followed a narrow, winding road — shrouded by a dense canopy of bamboo and towering plantation cedars — to the Sado Island Taiko Centre for an intimate, private performance by legendary Kodo taiko drummers. Adorned in traditional garb, their emotive, mesmerizing performance was a display of precision and power. Continuing to a nearby exhibition hall, we explored the island’s maritime heritage, seeing intricate ship models and fascinating artifacts and learning the art of crafting shingle roof tiles, a traditional skill that has shaped the island’s landscape for centuries. At the adjacent Ogi Folk Museum, we got a glimpse into the daily lives of Sado’s people, viewing exhibits of traditional handicrafts, clothing and household items.
As the sun set, we returned to our ship, greeted once again by the warm smiles and traditional sake tasting offered by welcoming locals. The rhythmic drumbeats from the shore echoed across the water as we slowly pulled away from the wharf, leaving the enchanting island behind.
We arrived in Kanazawa, a culturally rich city steeped in artistic tradition. Many of us took a relaxing guided stroll through Kenroku-en Garden, one of Japan’s Three Great Gardens and an oasis of tranquillity in the bustling city. We wandered through meticulously landscaped paths, admiring the serene ponds, cascading waterfalls and vibrant seasonal blooms. Next, we visited the lively Omicho Market, a sensory overload of fresh seafood, local produce and street food. Sampling local delicacies was a highlight, from impeccably fresh sushi to delicate pastries. Our final stop was the city’s bustling art centre, recognized for its exquisite pottery and intricate gold-leaf craftsmanship. We wandered through galleries showcasing artistic treasures and even had the opportunity to try our hand at gold leaf application. As the day waned, we stepped back in time to the well-preserved Higashi Chaya District, where we observed historic geisha houses.
Alternatively, some of us chose to explore Kakusenkei Gorge during an incredible hike through ancient woodlands, which ended in a rejuvenating soak in a natural onsen. Others ventured into the Shogawakyo Valley with a visit to picturesque Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Finally, some joined a local chef at the Omicho Market for a hands-on cooking class, immersing us in the flavours of the region.
The day concluded with a captivating geisha performance aboard ‘Le Soleil.’ The graceful dancers, their movements a mix of tradition and artistry, were accompanied by the witty commentary of the teahouse’s owner. The performance was a breathtaking finale, leaving us in awe and providing a fitting end to a day filled with cultural immersion and artistic discovery.
As our ship sailed into the quiet port town of Sakaiminato on the west coast of Honshu, we were met with a view of Daisen, a dormant stratovolcano dominating the landscape of western Tottori Prefecture.
After lunch at a local beer hall, we visited impressive Matsue Castle, one of Japan’s few remaining original castles. Its wooden interior and steep staircases transported us back to the Edo period. The view from the top offered breathtaking panoramas of verdant Matsue and adjacent Lake Shinji, while the castle itself offered a fascinating glimpse into Japan’s feudal past. Others decided to visit Yuushien Garden, an exquisite traditional water garden on Daikon Island. The meticulously manicured grounds, vibrant peony displays, serene koi ponds and shady groves proved tranquil at every turn. From its charming teahouses to its picturesque water features, it’s clear why the garden is so beloved.
Those interested in creative endeavours instead visited the Adachi Museum of Art. Known for its exceptional collection of traditional work, it houses nihonga, including paintings by Yokoyama Taikan. Not to be overlooked are its peaceful gardens, among them dry landscape, tea and moss gardens. After exploring, we visited the Abe Eishiro Memorial Museum and attended a Japanese papermaking demonstration. Local artisans shared the meticulous process of creating paper by hand. Then, we made our own paper, further deepening our appreciation of the art form.
Soon enough, it was time to return to ‘Le Soleal’ and begin our way toward South Korea.
Our arrival in South Korea was marked as we passed beneath the grand Gwangan Bridge in Busan, the world’s sixth-busiest port.
Some of us chose to explore Gyeongju, which holds some of the country’s first UNESCO-designated Heritage Sites. The intricate details of the Buddhist Bulguksa Temple and the ancient tombs and pagodas scattered throughout the coastal city lent fascinating insight into Korea’s rich royal history.
For those fascinated by modern industry, the Hyundai factory tour provided a glimpse into cutting-edge automotive technology and manufacturing processes. Touring this logistical marvel and witnessing the precision and innovation of one of the world’s leading car manufacturers stood in contrast to the country’s ancient past.
Some of our fellow travellers explored Busan further by visiting the Buddhist Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, perched on a rocky seaside cliff. We descended a symbolic 108 stairs to reach this ancient sanctuary, built in 1376. After a buffet Korean buffet lunch, we wandered through Dongbaek Park and visited the Nurimaru APEC House with its panoramic views of the city and coastline. Our next stop was the vibrant Gamcheon Culture Village, a colourful neighbourhood filled with artistic murals. We topped off our visit with a tasting of local delicacies, including refreshing frozen beer — the perfect treat on such a hot day.
As evening approached, we returned to the ship, where we enjoyed an exclusive performance of traditional Korean music on the pier. Tomorrow, we return to Japan.
Docking in the picturesque port of Karatsu transported us back to when it was a bustling hub of trade between Japan and mainland Asia.
Disembarking, we visited Karatsu Castle, perched atop a small hill overlooking the bay. Originally built in 1602, it stands as a testament to the region’s feudal past. The castle’s strategic location offers beautiful vistas of the surrounding landscape, where the sea meets lush greenery. As we passed through its stone gates and explored the well-preserved interior, we were immersed in tales of samurai warriors and ancient battles.
Alternatively, a group of us attended a joruri puppet performance at Kuhon-in Temple. The mesmerizing show was a testament to the skill and artistry of the puppeteers. Each puppet, crafted with meticulous detail, was brought to life with grace and precision. The musician’s powerful voice added depth to the emotionally charged storytelling, leaving us in awe of this ancient tradition.
Still others explored the storied ceramic districts of Imari and Okawachiyama. Just a short drive from Karatsu, Imari is revered for its exquisite porcelain works, which have been crafted here for over 400 years. This delicate art form, Imari ware, was once highly prized by European royalty and aristocrats. We toured local workshops, where skilled artisans painstakingly shaped and painted each piece, creating delicate masterpieces with intricate designs and vibrant colours. Each creation tells its own story, and we couldn’t resist purchasing a few as souvenirs.
We then wandered through the peaceful streets of Okawachiyama, a charming village filled with pottery kilns. Nestled amid dense forests and towering green hills, Okawachiyama resembled a remote Japanese mountain village.
Upon our return to ‘Le Soleal,’ we were greeted with a cheerful performance by a Taiko drum band, featuring talented junior and senior high school students.
As we approached the harbor, fishing boats came to greet us with colourful flags. Disembarking, we had the pleasure of exploring the tranquil town of Uwajima, a beautiful gem tucked away on Shikoku Island’s southwestern coast. Known for its pearl industry and stunning gardens, it offered a day of serene beauty and cultural discovery.
Some of us explored the area’s renowned pearl farms, watching as skilled workers inserted the nucleus into the oysters and learning what it takes for a pearl to form. We then visited Tensha-en Garden, a peaceful retreat that dates to the Edo period. Originally a private garden for the Date clan, who ruled Uwajima during the samurai era, it is an exemplary model of traditional Japanese garden design, complete with manicured lawns, koi-filled ponds and ancient trees.
Another group of us walked through Ozu’s Old Town. A step back in time, its narrow cobblestone streets were lined with charming Edo-period wooden houses. The gentle sound of the Yoshida River and the distant clanging of temple bells lent tranquillity.
Others visited Nanraku-en Garden, the largest in Shikoku. After exploring the sprawling grounds, we proceeded through the Yakushidani Valley, a deep gorge carved by a pure mountain stream. At the end of the narrow road, a welcoming little noodle restaurant served homemade somen noodles in a “noodle train,” using the cold water running from the stream.
Today’s visits began in Hiroshima, a city forever marked by the tragic events of August 6, 1945. We wandered through the tranquil Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, a beautifully landscaped haven honouring the victims of the devastating atomic bomb. Across the river, we could see the Atomic Bomb Dome. Standing amid the skeletal remains of the building, it's difficult to comprehend the devastation that occurred. Yet, a sense of resilience permeates the air, a reminder of how the city and its people rebuilt and moved forward. We also spent time in the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, which was both heartbreaking and deeply enlightening. The personal stories, photographs and artifacts brought the horrors of that day to life in a way that no history book ever could.
Our afternoon was spent in Miyajima. As we approached the island by ferry, we passed many oyster farms, a delicacy for which the island is famous. We visited Itsukushima Shrine with its iconic "floating" torii gate accessible on foot due to low tide. Despite many visitors, the shrine was peaceful, with its vermillion buildings contrasting against the deep blues of the sky and sea and the green of the surrounding mountains. It was easy to see why this place has been considered sacred for centuries.
Others hiked up Mount Misen, the highest peak on Miyajima. The trail meandering through shrines and temples was challenging, but the reward was stunning views of the island and the Seto Inland Sea.
This morning, we awoke in Takamatsu’s quaint port. From there, we took a ferry to Shodoshima, the heart of Japan’s olive-growing industry. We rode the cable car to the island’s highest point for panoramas before strolling down through the lush, cool rainforest. A very traditional banquet lunch was waiting for us near a sand bar linking Shodoshima to a small, adjacent island at low tide.
We then visited Ritsurin Garden, maintained for nearly 400 years. The grounds were stunning, with paths leading past tranquil ponds, ancient trees and perfectly placed stones. The view of Mount Shiun in the distance seemed to blend seamlessly into the garden, creating a sense of vastness and tranquility at once.
Some of us also visited Naoshima Island, Japan’s “Art Island.” An open-air museum, it’s filled with modern installations and striking architecture. We spent a few hours exploring Benesse House, where art and nature are intertwined.
Back aboard, we attended a calligraphy demonstration before attending a gala dinner to celebrate the completion of this special voyage.
Our day in Osaka was filled with the beauty of ancient architecture, the serenity of sacred spaces, and the breathtaking contrast between tradition and modernity.
Some began our adventure at the Buddhist Shitenno-ji Temple. Founded in 593, it’s among Japan's oldest. As we wandered through the tranquil grounds, the towering pagoda and intricate temple architecture transported us back in time. The imposing golden statues of Buddha within were a testament to the enduring power of faith and devotion. From there, we proceeded to the three-tiered Harukas 300 Observatory. Standing on the 60th floor — a dizzying 984 feet above Osaka — we took in views of the sparkling sea on one side and majestic mountains on the other.
Those who ventured to Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine found a serene oasis amid the bustling city. The striking vermilion bridges leading to the shrine were beautifully contrasted by shimmering ponds and lush greenery. The shrine's timeless architecture, unchanged for centuries, exuded a quiet elegance. Walking the grounds felt like a sacred pilgrimage through a place steeped in tradition.
Our day concluded with a visit to the Osaka Castle Park. The sheer scale of this historic fortress, surrounded by two massive moats and fortified by towering stone walls, is best appreciated by walking its expanse. As we crossed the lines of defense, we gained a newfound respect for the strategic genius of its ancient architects.
We also paid a visit to the Sakai Traditional Crafts Museum, which is dedicated to the history, production techniques and tools used to make knives in Sakai.
Our day in Nara was a journey through time. The city, steeped in tradition and natural beauty, enveloped us as we made our way to Buddhist Horyu-ji, one of the world's oldest wooden structures.
As we stepped onto the sacred grounds, we were immediately struck by its grandeur. The silence, occasionally punctuated by the cheerful chatter of school groups, was profound. Strolling through the temple complex, we marveled at the intricate woodwork, graceful curves of the pagoda and complete serenity. We spent a contemplative moment admiring the statues, particularly the Shaka Triad, nestled in the cool, shadowy depths of the central temple.
We continued to the awe-inspiring Todai-ji temple complex. As we approached the Great Buddha Hall, the towering bronze statue radiated both power and serenity, dwarfing us. Meanwhile, the Todai-ji Namdaimon (Grand South Gate), guarded by fierce statues, stood
as a timeless sentinel. However, it was the free-roaming deer that truly enchanted us. These gentle creatures playfully interacted with visitors, adding a touch of whimsy to the sacred space.
As our unforgettable journey through Japan draws to a close, we carry with us cherished memories. This enchanting cultural cruise has left an indelible mark on our hearts and minds, and we eagerly anticipate sharing our experiences with loved ones.
