We arrived in Oslo, ready to begin our trip of a lifetime to the North Pole. After time to settle in at our hotel, we attended a cocktail party, sat down to dinner and met our Expedition Team, learning details about the days ahead. We then retired to our rooms in anticipation of an early morning charter flight.
This morning, we flew to the Svalbard archipelago. Arriving in the Arctic frontier town of Longyearbyen on the island of Spitsbergen, we set out on a panoramic tour to learn the town’s history. Remains of coal mining operations were evident on surrounding hills, as was a small cemetery near the ruins of the former settlement. We then enjoyed lunch at a local restaurant. Continuing onward, we visited the Svalbard Museum, which chronicles local natural and cultural history with wildlife, scientific research, coal mining and polar expedition exhibits. After learning about early cartographers and explorers — and what life was like for trappers and hunters — we proceeded to our elegant floating home, ‘Le Commandant Charcot,’ where we were warmly welcomed by our Expedition Leader, Captain and crew and settled into our well-appointed staterooms.
We began the day with a visit to the small scientific community of Ny Ålesund on the island of Spitsbergen. Dedicated to scientific advancement, the settlement consists of 19 research stations from 11 countries around the globe. Scientists come here to study everything from meteorology to Arctic flora and fauna. As we strolled through town, we paused at the small, informative museum and viewed the large bust of Roald Amundsen, the Norwegian explorer who first reached the South Pole. Accompanied by polar bear guards, we next viewed Amundsen’s airship mast on the outskirts of town. Nearby, a reindeer calmly cropped the mossy ground, while snow buntings flew overhead.
This afternoon, we set off by Zodiac to see the 14th of July Glacier, observing puffins with brightly coloured bills, black guillemots and kittiwakes en route. After taking in the grandeur of its ice face as blue glaciers bobbed past, we returned to our ship for a travel journal workshop. Ending the day, we attended our Captain’s welcome cocktail party and dinner and met the senior officers supporting our voyage.
We proceeded steadily northward, spending the day at sea. After a daily yoga and stretch class, we attended a talk on the Arctic climate and sea ice. Later, we tried our hands at sketching and painting.
Suddenly, two endangered bowhead whales — a mother and a calf —were spotted near the ship. Throughout the day, our Expedition Team continued to keep watch for wildlife. The weather turned to sleet and snow as we approached the marginal ice zone, a transitional zone between open sea and dense drift ice. Large strips of shifting ice stretched toward the horizon, mottled here and there with shades of blue.
After lunch, those of us planning to take the Polar Plunge attended a mandatory briefing. We were then treated to an enriching talk by our onboard photo coach. At teatime, a giant pavlova was served in the lounge. Wrapping up the day’s enrichment programming, we enjoyed an Arctic discussion by Bob Headland, a distinguished polar historian.
Well after dinner, our Expedition Leader announced a polar bear sighting. Hurrying to the port side of the ship — some of us in jackets hastily thrown over pyjamas — we were thrilled to see a healthy, well-fed adult female. As the ship moved over patches of ice, our excitement only grew for the days ahead.
Overnight, the landscape continued to change. We awoke to seas nearly covered in ice. Spending another day at sea, we attended fascinating talks about life in Longyearbyen, followed by a discussion on Arctic birdlife. We then took a harmonica lesson.
To our delight, more polar bears were spotted — a mother with two young cubs. As we filled the ship’s decks, the creatures approached the vessel, just off the starboard bow. The mother lifted her face, taking in the unfamiliar scents while we enjoyed incredibly close views. They displayed no fear, only curiosity, as we watched them for half an hour. Once they ambled off across the ice, we continued on our way.
Later, our onboard science team revealed details about the research taking place during the voyage. Capping the day, we played a lively, post-dinner game of trivia.
As we sailed through sea ice en route to the North Pole, we attended a talk about icebreakers. Later, our onboard ice scientist discussed the challenges of navigating the icy seas.
This afternoon, we learned about the planning, construction and powerful icebreaking capabilities of our state-of-the-art vessel. After afternoon tea and a rolled ice cream treat, some of us joined our wellness coach on an afternoon walk around the deck. Others met for another session on travel journal writing.
Before dinner, we partook in an ice-breaking demonstration. To our amazement, we learned our vessel can sail backward through ice pressure ridges, breaking thick slabs of ice with its specially constructed propellers. We ended this full, enriching day with a post-dinner violin performance in the theatre.
We continued northward through icy seas that stretched to the horizon in undulating shades of white, broken by grey leads and blue pools of meltwater. In the theatre, our onboard historian discussed polar exploration. Later, some of us coloured Arctic-inspired mandalas and our geologist enriched our understanding of the polar seas with a talk on the birth of the Arctic and Atlantic.
Our helicopter then took off from the helipad to scout the ice floes ahead. Returning with good news, it was announced an ice landing was likely. The gangway was lowered, and the ice was carefully tested by our team. Once a perimeter was secured by our bear guards, we set foot on the frozen polar sea.
Bundled warmly in our expedition parkas, the wind blew across our faces and we walked onto the ice. Fanning out across the frozen terrain, we climbed hillocks and crossed melt ponds in our waterproof boots. Many photographs were taken as we posed on the ice and in front of our ship. Upon returning to our vessel, hot chocolate and tea were waiting to warm us up. It was an incredible day indeed.
This morning, with mounting anticipation, we followed the countdown as we approached the North Pole. Marking our arrival at 90 degrees north — the top of the world — he sounded the ship’s horn and flares went off. Mindful we achieved a latitude so many had struggled to reach, the deck was a scene of festive celebration.
After we gathered for a group photograph, the helicopter hatch slowly opened. From the depths of the bow, moving slowly upward, crewmembers with bottles of Champagne and caviar blini emerged. Captain Charbel ceremoniously opened with first bottle with an impressive slice of his knife. As the bubbly flowed and canapes were passed, we toasted explorers past; our journey; and tomorrow’s explorers. Marking the momentous event, our Expedition Leader presented Captain Charbel with a plaque commemorating the first North Pole journey with Abercrombie & Kent aboard ‘Le Commandant Charcot.’
Next, a nearby ice floe was carefully checked and the Expedition Team invited us to explore the terrain within a generous perimeter. There, we mailed postcards from the world’s northernmost post office box and took photos.
Back aboard, our ice scientist discussed the challenges of navigating the icy seas. After a lovely dinner, we went to bed with images of the North Pole circling in our heads.
After breakfast, we donned parkas and headed outside for a harmonica concert on the ice, beginning with a moving rendition of “Amazing Grace.” Due to rising winds, the originally planned polar plunge was rescheduled for a better day. Instead, some of us set out to view a magnificent pool of meltwater about twenty minutes from the ship. Around this “blue lagoon,” huge ice blocks lay heaped in ridges, emanating a violet-blue light. Farther out on the ice, our onboard ice scientist attached a buoy containing scientific instruments to the floe. Eventually, this will separate from the pack ice and float southward, bringing with it valuable data. Many of us chose to “adopt” this buoy, signing our names on the yellow plastic. We hope to follow its progress online during the coming months. As we returned to the ship, we were met by a portly figure near the gangway. Wearing a red suit sitting on a snowmobile, he graciously invited us to take photos with him — after asking if we’d been naughty or nice. Back onboard, we warmed up with tea and hot chocolate. As ‘Le Commandant Charcot’ turned southward, we spent the early afternoon relaxing and watching Frozen Planet II. Later, the first meeting of the North Pole Book Club was held to discuss Farthest North by Fridtjof Nansen. We then attended an enriching talk on wildlife photography. During dinner, several seals were spotted on the ice. Afterward, a lively, well-attended casino night was enjoyed in the main lounge.
We began the morning alongside another ice floe as we continued our North Pole journey. After the terrain was tested and a secure perimeter established, our crew began setting up for a polar plunge. In the meantime, many of us wore snowshoes over our waterproof boots and set off across the white expanse and the ponds of blue meltwater.
To one side of the gangway, an officer from ‘Le Commandant Charcot’ demonstrated the ship’s emergency equipment, including a large inflatable tent and an orange cold weather immersion suit. Soon, the first brave souls began the polar rite of passage. One by one, we jumped or stepped into frigid waters that took our breath away. Clambering out, we were welcomed by cheers, towels and cups of hot chocolate. In total, 53 fellow travellers took part at latitude 87 degrees, 41 minutes, longitude 59 degrees, 46 minutes, in water that was 29.4 Fahrenheit.
After a warming lunch onboard, we enjoyed a talk on Arctic whales, received a knot-tying lesson and could participate in aqua aerobics. Ending the day’s enrichment, our resident historian discussed the search for the Northwest Passage. After dinner, another lively, competitive trivia night took place.
This morning, some of us continued enjoying our Captain’s open bridge policy, watching through wide bridge windows as the powerful ship moved effortlessly through the frozen sea. Some seabirds were visible, mostly kittiwakes and fulmars. Meanwhile, others began the day with a yoga session.
After breakfast, our sea ice scientist gave a fascinating lecture on travelling to the North Pole during winter. Next, we attended a cooking demonstration on how to perfect crème brûlée and foie gras and our oceanographer discussed the Arctic Ocean — below the surface.
As we approached a large, open polynya, we learned we could set out by Zodiac. Bundled in our warmest layers as a chilly wind blew, we embarked on a cruise along the ice’s edge, spotting several rare ivory gulls and more kittiwakes. We then landed on the ice in a thrilling display of Zodiac seamanship. After a short walk on the floe, we came upon a large block of ice fixed with celebratory bottles of Champagne, to be enjoyed paired with caviar.
Back aboard after our exhilarating outing, some of us took to strength training, while others spent time journaling and writing poetry. Tonight, five members of our Expedition Team entertained us with a game of Liar’s Club in the theatre. After a delicious dinner, we enjoyed a musical tribute to Whitney Houston in the lounge.
The mist lifted, and brilliant sunshine turned the icy landscape into a sparkling wonderland. Making our way through the sea ice, we spotted a polar bear. Watching from our balconies and the outer decks as the magnificent animal ambled toward us, she lifted her head and sniffed the unfamiliar scents of the ship with a mixture of curiosity and caution.
The weather was stunning as kittiwakes and fulmars flew overhead and flocks of guillemots passed below. Returning to a talk on the history of Svalbard, another bear was soon spotted. Although it was initially napping on the snow, it soon approached the ship, offering incredibly close views. Shortly after, in the middle of our North Pole Book Club meeting, we saw a third bear. Then, during lunch, a fourth! Before long, we observed a mother with two cubs who peered up at us as we tried to contain our excitement. Then — on a pressure ridge of blue ice — the mother calmly nursed her cubs in full view.
After this incredible sight, our lecture series resumed with a geology talk on Greenland — that is, until yet another bear was seen. This time, it was a mother with a cub almost as big as she was. The pair swam across the water for a closer look at the ship, once again affording spectacular views. All told, this brought the day’s bear count to nine.
Sailing onward, we partook in a water aqua aerobics session, followed by another harmonica lesson and a talk about the MOSAiC expedition to the Arctic. As the day ended, we enjoyed music from around the world, later retiring to bed with dreams of polar bears.
On our last day in the marginal ice zone, we ventured out on the water. Some of us suited up in waterproof gear for a kayaking expedition. Transported to a nearby floe by Zodiac, we boarded a smaller craft and began exploring along the ice’s edge. Others cruised through a maze of floating ice by Zodiac, viewing a walrus hauled out on the ice. A young male with short tusks, it was apparent the walrus suffered injuries from a fight, perhaps with an older male or even a polar bear. Keeping quiet so as not to startle the creature, we watched as it scratched itself.
Slowly, fog settled in around us. On our way back to the ship, a member of our Expedition Team spotted a large, bearded seal. We were fortunate to see its iconic moustache before it slipped into the sea.
Back onboard, we warmed up with hot chocolate. In the afternoon, more kayakers paddled through the polar waters and a second Zodiac cruise was deployed. Wildlife sightings were plentiful, from a minke whale to another bearded seal and a proliferation of kittiwakes, fulmars and guillemots.
Back onboard, our Captain shared an electrifying story of being held up by Somali pirates in 2008 in the Gulf of Aden. Thankfully, he successfully negotiated the rescue of his crew and his ship.
During dinner, we paused for yet another incredible wildlife sighting — a mother polar bear and her two cubs feasting on seal remains. Later, we were entertained with a dance performance in the theatre.
We awoke off the northern coast of Svalbard, with views of land after days of sea ice. Bundled in parkas, we took a Zodiac cruise along the dramatic Alkefjellet cliffs within Nordaust-Svalbard Nature Reserve. Here, 60,000 breeding pairs of Brünnich's guillemots nest on narrow ledges of basaltic rock, along with black guillemots, kittiwakes and glaucous gulls.
Birds circled overhead and bobbed across the water, and the air filled with their calls. Waterfalls tumbled down the cliff faces. Soon, we spotted a polar fox along the edge of the scree in search of eggs or chicks.
As we enjoyed a special gourmet brunch back aboard ‘Le Commandant Charcot,’ the wind increased. Instead of our planned Zodiac excursion, we continued to beautiful Wahlenbergfjorden. Approaching the breathtaking Etonbreen glacier, we admired it from the comfort of the helipad and observation lounge. From the bridge, our geologist and ice scientist lent insight, discussing the age of the rocks and the changing features of the glacier over time.
Afterward, some of us attended a polar bear talk; the final meeting of the North Pole book club; and a spectacular musical performance by our talented crew.
We reached fog-shrouded Kapp Lee, the northwesternmost point of Edgeøya Island in the southeastern Svalbard archipelago. Taking advantage of calm conditions and the absence of wind, we set out on a Zodiac tour along the shore. On the headland, we saw three huts, constructed in 1904 and once used by trappers. We observed a flock of eiders and a huddle of walruses on the beach, their ivory tusks gleaming white against the dark surroundings. The fog began to clear, and a fogbow appeared on the horizon behind us. Beyond the headland rose the high, dark slopes of the island. While we enjoyed lunch onboard, we proceeded to Sundneset, across the strait.
Later cruising to shore by Zodiac as drizzle fell, we spotted Arctic terns and guillemots. Setting off across the tundra, we clambered up basaltic rocks for views of the sound and the lake before coming upon a small cabin, built for German research expeditions from 1959-67.
On the springy ground grew a profusion of Arctic flowers, including the delicate Svalbard poppy. Exploring further, we found reindeer antlers scattered on the low slope above the beach. Later, two reindeer trotted beside the lake, and we watched snow bunting feed their recently fledged young.
This evening, we attended our Captain’s farewell party and gala dinner, followed by a lively karaoke night in the main lounge.
We arrived in dramatically beautiful Hornsund, situated at the southernmost tip of Norway's Spitsbergen Island. On the sound’s north side lies the bay of Burgerbukta, a majestic glacier situated at its end. Two days ago, a major calving deposited new icebergs in the water. Some of us took advantage of the occurrence during a kayak expedition. Others cruised the bay by Zodiac, while others viewed the scenery from our ship. We heard air trapped in the glacier for millennia crackle free while admiring the brilliant blue striations on the newest icebergs.
Back aboard, we repositioned to nearby Gnålodden, its towering bird cliffs filled with pairs of nesting, vocalizing kittiwakes. Thankfully, the sky cleared, allowing us to soak in the grandeur of our surroundings. We landed near — and visited — the old trapper’s cabin, now used by Polish scientists. Some of us went on to explore the rocky beach, while others ventured inland through springy tundra, Arctic wildflowers proliferating among the moss. When a fellow traveller lay down on the ground, an Arctic fox approached and sniffed at his boot before trotting away. Near our landing site, we observed a pair of Arctic skuas nesting and feeding their chick. A young glaucous gull sat beside its parent on a large boulder near the shore.
Back aboard, the mood was festive and retrospective as our talented onboard photographers shared a video of our special voyage. The winners of our photography and poetry contests were then announced. Additionally, two vials of water from the North Pole were auctioned for the benefit of the ‘Le Commandant Charcot’ crew. After reminiscing over dinner, we packed anticipation of tomorrow’s charter flight from Longyearbyen, mindful this unforgettable journey was coming to a close.
After our last breakfast onboard, we bid farewell to our ship in Longyearbyen Harbour and enjoyed a short, scenic city tour. Paying a visit to Green Dog Svalbard, we next took a guided tour with a dog handler, learning how sled dogs are trained and how a dog sled works. In the yard, we were greeted with wagging tails and boisterous howls. After making friends with many of the dogs, we paused for a picture at the polar bear sign on the outskirts of town. Beyond it, a polar bear guard is required. Continuing onward, we passed the Svalbard Global Seed Vault, which houses duplicates of 1,301,397 seeds from almost every country globally. We then headed to the airport to board our charter flight to Oslo. On arrival, we transferred to our hotel and enjoyed a final dinner together, recollecting our trip to the North Pole and making plans for future adventures.
