We gathered from around the world in Scotland’s historic capital, surrounded by striking medieval, Georgian and neo-classical architecture. After settling into our hotel in the city’s heart, we gathered for welcome cocktails and a celebratory dinner, complemented by live traditional and original Gaelic and Scottish folk songs, sung by Josie Duncan. Tomorrow, we will delve deeper into the city of Edinburgh.
Our day in Edinburgh began with a farewell to the historic Balmoral Hotel on iconic Princes Street. Nearby, the Scott Monument stands in Princes Street Gardens as a testament to the city’s rich heritage.
After a leisurely breakfast, we embarked on diverse excursions to explore by coach and on foot. Some visited Edinburgh Castle, perched atop Castle Rock, a volcanic plug that dominates the skyline.
Others set out on a panoramic tour of Edinburgh’s historic centre, passing The Royal Mile, Holyrood Palace and the iconic castle en route to the Royal Yacht Britannia. The historic vessel served as the British Royal Family’s official residence for over 40 years. We wandered through the exhibits, taking in the elegant interior living spaces, surprisingly narrow beds and photographs at the visitor’s centre.
The rest of us explored the city’s architecture on a walking tour. Venturing off the beaten path, we explored the charming Dean neighbourhood and followed the Water of Leith, admiring 18th-century buildings and numerous water-powered mills that once played a crucial role in the city’s history, using imported quartz grinding stones from France to produce flour that sustained Edinburgh’s population. Then at the Stockbridge Market, we paused for coffee, reflecting on the surrounding Georgian and Victorian architecture.
After concluding our adventures at Rosyth Port, we boarded the luxurious ‘Le Dumont D’Urville,’ setting sail down the Firth of Forth. The day was still bright, allowing us to appreciate dramatic Bass Rock and its thriving colony of over 100,000 northern gannets. The birds’ white feathers shimmered in the golden evening light, creating a breathtaking sight.
Overnight we departed Edinburgh’s Lowlands, bound for the mountainous Scottish Highlands.
Invergordon welcomed us with sunshine and rainbows as ‘Le Dumont d’Urville’ docked. Disembarking, we spent the day exploring the Scottish Highlands, visiting historic Urquhart Castle on the shores of Loch Ness. After a scenic drive through Beauly and Drumnadrochit, we arrived at the castle. Its rich history — spanning centuries of Scottish, Celtic and Roman influence — has a tumultuous past of uprisings, battles and periods of peace.
Following the Highland Boundary Fault, we then boarded a private boat for a scenic cruise along Loch Ness and the Caledonian Canal. Despite our unsuccessful search for the elusive Nessie, our journey was filled with beautiful vistas. We then visited a historic Scottish farm, where we enjoyed a delicious lunch of local cuisine and a performance by musician and storyteller Bruce MacGregor. Talented dancer, Gracie Schofield, also entertained us with her Scottish dance routines.
As we drove back to Invergordon, we took in the rolling hills, heather-covered moors and lush fields of hay and barley. In the distance, the first snow of autumn dusted the mountain peaks. According to local folklore, haggis, a mythical creature, inhabit these hills.
Others embarked on a day-long excursion to Culloden, site of the infamous 1746 battle. Our next stop was Fort George, a massive, impenetrable fortress built as a symbol of British dominance. It now serves as a barracks for the Black Watch regiment. We enjoyed lunch at Culloden House, where Bonnie Prince Charlie and General Cumberland stayed before and after the battle, respectively.
Those who went to Glenmorangie Distillery in Tain took a guided tour, learning the centuries-old tradition and modern science behind producing whisky. The distillery’s towering still — the tallest in Europe — stands the same height as its mascot, a giraffe. After a memorable lunch, pairing whisky with local fare, we explored the distillery’s beautiful grounds and visited the Hilton of Cadboll Stone, a replica of a magnificent Pictish cross-slab.
Meanwhile, our scenic tour through the Highlands journeyed through the picturesque Inverness area, revealing stunning Scottish Highlands views, including of Loch Ness and the Caledonian Canal. We also visited the charming village of Beauly and explored its historic priory.
Upon returning to the ship, we reconvened for our Captain’s cocktail party and dinner. As we departed Invergordon, a lone piper played a haunting melody. Tomorrow, we look forward to exploring the Orkney Islands.
We sailed overnight from Scotland’s Alba to Orkney, leaving the Highlands behind. Disembarking our ship to explore the islands, rolling hills, lush pastures and golden barley fields bordered by ancient stone walls created a picturesque scene. Occasional hedges of wild rose and fuchsia, livestock and the surprising sight of palm trees added to the unique setting.
Our half-day walking tour of Kirkwall offered a delightful stroll through the city’s historic streets, guided by a knowledgeable local guide. We traced the town’s ancient history, shaped by thousands of years of occupation and centuries as a thriving Norse port. The coastline, once lapped by the North Sea, was reshaped to accommodate the growing town. At the heart of Kirkwall stands St. Magnus Cathedral. Inside, we discovered the grave of John Rae, a renowned Arctic explorer whose accomplishments are often overlooked. Our tour continued to the Bishop’s and Earl’s palaces, concluding with time at leisure.
Those who skirted the coast enjoyed beautiful scenery. Our route took in the ancient Standing Stones of Stenness and stunning views of the towering cliffs of Marwick Head, where surf pounded onto the beaches. After a pleasant lunch at a local brewery, we viewed the Standing Stones of Stenness, part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the Heart of Neolithic Orkney.
Others explored the Neolithic heart of Orkney, first visiting the Italian Chapel — a curious little church built and decorated by Italian prisoners of war during the 1940s. We then saw the famous standing stones, older than Egypt’s pyramids and Stonehenge. Miraculously, they were saved from near destruction by a local farmer’s explosives. Nearby, the Ring of Brodgar evoked the feel of a spiritual gathering. Continuing onward, Skara Brae — an ancient Neolithic village partially reclaimed from the sea — offered a glimpse into the lives of Orcadians 5,000 years ago. The extraordinary stonework and dwellings’ proximity showcased the ingenuity and social structure of these early inhabitants. Our tour concluded with a delicious lunch at a local hotel before returning to Kirkwall.
Gathering back aboard, our photo coach offered an introduction to photography. Continuing onward, we entered rougher waters bound for The Minch, which separates the Inner Hebrides from the Outer Hebrides.
We spent the night sailing along Scotland’s northern coast, westward from Orkney and around Cape Wrath, heading toward the Western Isles. However, stormy weather forced us to abandon plans to visit the outer islands. Instead, we continued south to the coastal fishing village of Mallaig.
During the morning at sea our Captain graciously opened the bridge for us to view and learn about the workings of the navigation department. Also on offer was a presentation spanning the British Isles from the Bronze Age to Brexit, which lent context to our journey.
After a leisurely lunch aboard, we prepared to disembark by tender in Mallaig. However, strong winds and rough seas caused us to change course. We instead continued toward Fort William, on the opposite side of the Great Highland Fault from Inverness.
In the afternoon, we attended an enriching talk about the role plate tectonics played in the birth of the Atlantic. Our Scottish guides then discussed the origins and process of distilling Scotch and Irish whiskey, after which we enjoyed a tasting.
We concluded the day with a delicious dinner and lively trivia quiz at a calm anchorage off Fort William.
We awoke to a peaceful morning at anchor, shrouded in mist that clung to the surrounding hills. At sea level, we had a clear view of Fort William, nestled on the lower slopes of the hills above the long, narrow sea loch of Loch Linnhe. As we warmed to the day, we learned our team arranged unexpected excursions to choose from.
Those wishing to explore Glencoe began with a scenic journey along Loch Linnhe before turning inland and ascending the dramatic valley. Arriving at the visitor centre, we marvelled at the ever-changing landscape as the mist swirled and the sun broke through. An introductory video offered a stark reminder of the medieval era; highlighted the harsh realities of Scottish life; and revealed the tragic massacre of the MacDonald clan. Changing gears, we paused at onsite shops the tearoom. Outside, a fascinating reconstruction of a turf-walled cottage provided a glimpse into the past. After appreciating views of the glen, we explored the nearby woodland, a peaceful oasis of alder, birch and brown trees echoing with the cheerful songs of European robins and Eurasian chaffinches.
Others began the day at Glenfinnan’s visitor centre, learning about the Jacobite uprising and its iconic figure, Bonnie Prince Charlie. We then strolled to the Glenfinnan Viaduct, made famous by Harry Potter. We were thrilled to witness a steam locomotive chugging across the viaduct, billowing smoke as it traversed the valley. Our final stop was the impressive Neptune’s Staircase. A series of eight connected canal locks — constructed in 181 — this remarkable feat of engineering allows boats to ascend 65 feet over 448 yards in approximately 90 minutes.
For those in search of adventure, local guide Matthew led us along a tranquil well-maintained trail through native alder, hazel and rowan trees to An Steall Bàn (Steall Waterfall), Scotland’s second-highest waterfall, with a single drop of 393 feet.
After lunch aboard, we headed to the Nevis Range Mountain Gondola. Arriving at the bottom station, we were greeted by “Spud the Piper,” who treated us to a performance of lively, traditional Scottish tunes. From atop, we enjoyed views across the glen, delicious food, fine Scottish whisky and traditional cèilidh dance.
Upon returning to our beloved ‘Le Dumont d’Urville,’ we sailed along the loch towards the sea as the sun set over picturesque waters.
A breathtaking sunrise painted the sky as we approached the Isle of Staffa. The island’s name — derived from the Norwegian word for “stave” — is a testament to the early Norse explorers’ observation of its basalt columns, which resembled the staves of their churches back home.
On arrival, our fleet of Zodiacs set sail from the anchorage. From a distance, the island’s flat summit, grassy slopes and towering cliffs were immediately apparent. As we drew closer, the intricate details of the basalt columns, formed over 60 million years ago, came into focus. Resembling the pipes of a majestic cathedral organ, they stretched upward, their uniformity giving way to mesmerizing twists, bends and distortions. At the waterline, barnacles and limpets clung to the rock; higher up, mineral deposits seeped through the cracks, contrasting with the vibrant yellow lichens that adorned the cliff faces. Several caves broke the cliff line at sea level, affording views from our boats. Among the most famous was Fingal’s with its hexagonally jointed basalt columns and natural acoustics.
Back aboard ‘Le Dumont d’Urville,’ we sailed toward Iona, where we disembarked once more using the ship’s tenders. Our afternoon was filled with strolls and invigorating hikes across the island. Some of us ventured north to explore the pristine, white-sand beaches and conquer a challenging, hilly ascent. Others delved into the island’s rich history, visiting the historic Iona Nunnery, St. Oran’s Chapel and the original St. Martin’s Cross.
The idyllic afternoon, with its gentle breeze and warm sunshine, beckoned us to explore the charming streets. Some of us set out on foot, browsing the craft shops filled with exquisite jewellery. Others savoured drinks at a local cafe or bar while enjoying vistas of the Isle of Mull and the Scottish mainland.
This morning, we arrived at the bustling port of Killybegs. Under sunny skies, we embarked on a variety of exciting excursions.
Those who ventured to Northern Ireland took a scenic drive to Derry. There, we visited the Museum of Free Derry, dedicated to the civil rights movement of the late 1960s and the Free Derry Irish nationalist movement of the early 1970s. Continuing our walk through Derry's streets, we observed murals commemorating Bloody Sunday. After a local lunch, we continued strolling along the waterfront and through the charming town centre, browsing through local craft markets and discovering more murals along the way. We ended the day at the iconic Peace Bridge, a symbol of reconciliation and hope for a brighter future.
Others sought serenity in the countryside, following a scenic stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way to the Slieve Liag mountains. At Bunglass Point, we were rewarded with views of towering cliffs and flat-topped Ben Bulben (Table Mountain). After lunch at a charming Irish pub, we wandered through Glencolmcille Folk Village, a living history museum where skilled craftspeople wove rush crosses and live Irish folk music — played on the guitar and fiddle — emanated.
While some of us enjoyed lunch at picturesque Eske Castle, others ate onboard ‘Le Dumont d'Urville.’ We reunited at Donegal Harbour and boarded the local waterbus for a scenic cruise through Donegal Bay. As we sailed, we spotted grey and common seals and a proliferation of waterbirds, accompanied by traditional Irish folk songs. Before returning to Killybegs, we explored the town centre, soaking up its historic atmosphere.
Returning to the ship, we watched a playful pod of bottlenose dolphins frolicking around our vessel, followed by a breathtaking sunset. As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a vibrant green flash to the west, a massive harvest moon rose in the east.
Tonight, we set sail for Galway.
Another gorgeous, sunny day greeted us as we embarked on our excursions in the emerald-green countryside surrounding Galway.
For some, Connemara was the ultimate attraction. We set out into the heart of this splendid region, traveling along winding roads through lush meadows and marshy moorland dotted with sheep. Long, tranquil lakes stretched out on either side and rolling, weathered hills framed the picturesque landscape. Nestled amid this natural beauty was Kylemore Abbey, a Benedictine monastery with peaceful gardens on the grounds of historic Kylemore Castle. After learning about its rich history and exploring the Victorian walled garden, we indulged in a lunch of local lamb shanks at a nearby hotel. On our return journey to Galway, we made an impromptu stop in quaint Oughterard for a pint at a thatched-roof pub.
The allure of food and whiskey drew others into the heart of Galway. A local guided us through the city, sharing fascinating stories and bringing its history to life. Along the way, we stopped to sample charcuterie, cheeses, and poitín, a potent local spirit, followed by smoother apple brandy. After a few more culinary delights, we continued to a classic Irish pub, where a local oyster expert paired bivalves with blended and single malt whiskeys. With our appetites satisfied, we took time to explore the vibrant city.
Our third excursion took us to the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren, two natural wonders south of Galway that comprise a UNESCO Global Geopark. After a delicious lunch, we marveled at the dramatic scenery as we strolled along the coastal, cliff-top trail. Venturing into the Burren — a limestone karst landscape — we visited a fascinating dolmen, a prehistoric megalithic structure that dates to the early Neolithic period. Here, sheep farming is a common practice. We were fortunate to visit a local working farm, where we met the shepherd and their loyal dogs and watched them herd the flock.
As we sailed away this evening, bound for Plymouth, England, a full moon rose in the east, while the sun set on the Irish portion of our journey. It was a magical farewell to this enchanting country.
The emerald coast faded into the distance as we sailed across the shimmering expanse of the Celtic Sea. As we continued our journey toward the Cornish coast, a leisurely day at sea gave us time to relax, unwind and enjoy a series of fascinating talks, including one on Viking history and another about future plate movements amid an ever-changing landscape.
After a leisurely lunch, we attended a contemplative climate change discussion. Completely changing gears, we then played a game of Liars’ Club, during which our team presented imaginative, sometimes-accurate definitions of obscure words and we discerned fact from fiction.
This evening, we previewed the highlights that await us in Plymouth.
Our day exploring the south coast of England was a delightful journey through history, taking us to the historic city of Plymouth and the picturesque counties of Devon and Cornwall.
Those who visited stately Mount Edgcumbe House experienced a coastal gem. We meandered along the picturesque Cornish coastline, arriving at the extraordinary estate with views of Plymouth Harbor. Inside, we were guided through the historic home, learning fascinating tales of the Earls of Mount Edgcumbe and admiring the exquisite artwork. Despite the devastation of World War II, the property was meticulously restored, offering a glimpse into the rich history of the Edgcumbe family.
Those wishing to explore Plymouth’s maritime heritage began at the Mayflower Steps to gain insight into the Pilgrims’ epic voyage. Our guided walk through Barbican’s charming streets led us to a peaceful walled garden. We then perused the Mayflower Museum. Next, we ventured to Plymouth Hoe, seeing landmarks like Sir Francis Drake’s statue and memorials honouring those who fought in World Wars I and II. Soaring Smeaton’s Tower lighthouse stood proudly against the backdrop. As a fitting end to our day, we partook in afternoon tea at a nearby restaurant overlooking the picturesque Sound.
The rest of our group meandered through the charming village of Tavistock before venturing onto the wild, rugged Dartmoor moors. There, we marvelled at tors, towering rock formations that dot the landscape. Meanwhile, the moors were alive with the sight of grazing sheep, cattle and ponies. Navigating the narrow, winding roads was an adventure, thanks to the curious sheep that often blocked our path. During the drive, we passed Dartmoor Prison, a notorious institution that once housed hardened criminals. Our journey culminated at the Two Bridges Hotel, where we relaxed over a divine afternoon tea with scones, strawberry jam and clotted cream.
As we made our way back to Plymouth, we were enchanted by ancient stone bridges; the unique clapper bridge; and the winding hedgerows that lined the countryside. Back aboard ‘Le Dumont d’Urville’, we attended an enlightening talk about evolution, with insight into Charles Darwin and Alfred Russel Wallace.
Ending the evening on a high note, we gathered for a luxurious caviar tasting. After a slideshow of our journey, curated by our photo coach, our Captain hosted an evening cocktail party and a gala dinner, introducing us to our dedicated crew.
The iconic White Cliffs of Dover emerged from the morning mist, followed by the imposing Dover Castle. As we sailed closer to the port, these timeless landmarks left a lasting impression. Although our voyage aboard enchanting ‘Le Dumont d’Urville’ concluded in Dover, our adventures were far from over — the counties of Kent and London awaited us.
Bidding farewell to our vessel, we explored Chartwell, home of Sir Winston Churchill for over 40 years. In his studio, we saw the world’s largest collection of his paintings. After pausing for bangers and mash, followed by Victoria sponge, we strolled through the attractive gardens before continuing to London.
Our visit to Canterbury proved a profound experience, as we explored the most significant cathedral in England. As one of the oldest Christian structures in the country, Canterbury Cathedral holds a place of immense historical and spiritual importance. From this hallowed ground, the Archbishop of Canterbury oversees the spiritual community of the Church of England and the global Anglican Communion.
Originally established in 597, the cathedral has endured centuries of history, undergoing extensive rebuilding after a devastating fire in 1174 and again in the 14th century. Today, it stands as a breathtaking masterpiece and testament to the enduring spirit of faith and architectural brilliance.
Continuing to Leeds Castle, a majestic island fortress, we were transported through centuries of English history. Once a formidable Norman stronghold, it later became a royal residence for six medieval queens, including Catherine of Aragon, the first wife of Henry VIII. Over time, it evolved into a Jacobean country house and a Georgian mansion.
The journey to the castle itself involved a scenic land train ride through the expansive grounds, followed by a picturesque walk across a bridge to the idyllic island. As we explored the castle’s rich history and learned about the life of Lady Bailey, its last owner, we took in beautiful vistas, observed sculptures and even tested our navigation skills in the challenging maze.
Tonight, we gathered once more for cocktails and fine dining at our hotel.
The abundance of attractions in London made it challenging to choose a single excursion. Alas, history enthusiasts eager to delve into London’s wartime past privately toured Churchill’s underground headquarters, followed by a visit to the thought-provoking Imperial War Museum. After a delightful lunch by the Thames, we explored the iconic HMS Belfast, a historic warship and museum.
The iconic Tower of London, steps from our hotel, was a must-see for others. With an early start, we privately toured the tower’s outer precincts, followed by a viewing of the Crown Jewels, which left us awestruck. From there, we took a scenic tour through London’s skyline, featuring numerous bridges, historic landmarks and modern marvels. Arriving at the London Eye, we rode on the giant Ferris wheel. Rounding off the day, we sat down to lunch overlooking Buckingham Palace, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Oxford Circus and Trafalgar Square.
Others started at the Tower of London, seeing the Crown Jewels and enjoying a greeting by famously vocal resident ravens. Continuing onward, we visited Kensington Palace, seeing the lavish chambers of Queen Victoria and the current Queen and her family and catching up on the history of the British royal family. After lunch, we strolled past Buckingham Palace.
Those preferring a culinary adventure made their way to Fortnum & Mason, a storied,18th-century department store brimming with gourmet groceries. We explored every floor of this culinary paradise, noting exquisite packaging that housed the world’s finest delicacies. In The Crypt, we were tempted by a tantalizing array of cheeses and hams. We proceeded on foot through the affluent Mayfair neighbourhood, arriving at the East India Tea Company to sample tea from around the globe; learn about tea history; and gain insight into brewing techniques. Our gastronomic journey continued at a confectionery shop resembling a box of chocolates come to life. We ended the day with an unforgettable three-course lunch hosted by the former chef of Prince Charles and his family.
The rest of us appreciated the city's modern skyline, punctuated by sleek skyscrapers, and delved into the fascinating world of historic financial institutions like the London Stock Exchange and the Bank of England. Our tour culminated at the magnificent St. Paul’s Cathedral, a masterpiece perched atop Ludgate Hill. A highlight of the day was a visit to the vibrant Borough Market, where we indulged in a sensory feast at a renowned cheese shop and savoured classic fish and chips. As we crossed the iconic Tower Bridge and passed the historic Tower of London, we reflected on the unforgettable journey through London's past and present.
Tomorrow, we bid farewell to our new friends and travel onward or homeward.
