Arrivederci Italia! We’re off to Croatia. Once aboard beautiful ‘Le Bougainville,’ we gathered on the pool and observation decks to watch two tugs escort us away from sunny Venice. After our Expedition Leader introduced us to our Captain and the A&K team, we learned about tomorrow’s adventures in Split. Needless to say, excitement was in the air.
After dinner, there was a chance to listen — and, perhaps, dance — to the music in the lounge, given the luxury of a day at sea.
Our day at sea began with a laidback breakfast, allowing us to shake off the last remnants of jet lag. Afterward, we joined our photo coach to glean tips for our voyage and visited our ship’s bridge. We then enjoyed an insightful presentation on the operettas of Franz von Suppe. During lunch, ‘Le Bougainville’ glided alongside Split.
Those eager to explore UNESCO World Heritage sites headed to the enchanting city of Trogir to explore its Romanesque, Renaissance and Baroque heritage. En route, we were stunned by views of the Adriatic Sea on one side and the majestic Kozjak Mountains on the other. Wandering through Trogir’s inviting side streets, we were impressed by the ornate marble coats of arms adorning the wealthy family homes and the towering marble columns that symbolized their status. With some free time for shopping, we eventually made our way back to Split. There, the exterior of Diocletian’s Palace revealed an opulent interior.
Meanwhile, those with culinary aspirations instead visited a local food market to sample local specialties. We then toured the Diocletian’s Palace and marvelled at Saint Domnius Cathedral, Jupiter’s Temple, Peristyle Square and the Silver Gate. At renowned chocolatier Nadalina, we received sweet treats and fragrant lavender as souvenirs. Our journey continued through the Golden Gate to see the sculpture Gregory of Nin, a symbol of good luck. We concluded the day in lively People’s Square (Pjaca), where we sipped coffee alongside a local sponge cake called Splitska torta.
Our group’s history enthusiasts embarked on a walking tour of Split’s historic centre and explored shops along the promenade. We then visited the Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built at the end of the third century. We even observed its well-preserved cellars. Our excursion continued to bustling Peristyle Square and St. Domnius Cathedral, among the world’s oldest Catholic churches. After a coffee break, we visited Jupiter’s Temple and the historic Silver Gate.
Upon returning to ‘Le Bougainville,’ we continued south while attending our Captain’s welcome reception and dinner. Then, night owls were treated to a mesmerizing performance by the ship’s talented dancers and singers.
Early risers set out on a kayaking adventure to Lokrum, taking in panoramic views of the city walls from the sea. On land, we explored the historic Benedictine Monastery of St. Mary, where scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed. Many of us chose to swim and soak in the natural beauty of the island, encountering peacocks along the way. Returning to the mainland, we had the choice of exploring Dubrovnik’s Old City — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — or relaxing back aboard our ship.
Others strolled through the quiet streets of Dubrovnik before peddling through the picturesque Croatian countryside. As we explored the lush Konavle Valley, we visited local farms and vineyards and paused for a tasting alongside local cheeses, oils, and bread. Upon returning to the port, many of us decided to stay ashore and explore the now-bustling city.
Meanwhile, our culinary enthusiasts ventured into the countryside to visit an estate with an olive oil mill powered by donkeys and humans. There, we learned about the intricacies of olive oil cultivation and production, including how to distinguish pure olive oil from inferior blends. After a tasting of Croatian delicacies, we had time to purchase its wares. Our final stop was unforgettable — we sailed to a floating platform to enjoy grappa with fresh mussels and oysters, watching as the bivalves were harvested from nearby waters. Afterward, we indulged in a meal of black risotto at a local restaurant.
Another group meandered through Dubrovnik’s historic streets, paved with polished Croatian limestone and bathed in warm sunlight. We visited the magnificent Roman Catholic Assumption Cathedral. Inside the treasury, we admired the ornate reliquaries adorned with silver and gold, containing precious relics of various saints. From there, we continued to Orlando’s Column, depicting an armoured knight who — according to legend — helped the people of old Dubrovnik (Ragusa) defeat invaders. Our final stop was the Franciscan Church and Monastery, where we saw its citrus trees, ceremonial vestments and fascinating old pharmacy. The poison stored on the top shelf served as a clear warning against theft.
Those favouring a comprehensive tour of the city gathered at the Pile Gate and explored the Franciscan Church and Monastery before returning to the port side of Dubrovnik. We then boarded a coach for a scenic journey, taking in breathtaking sea views and picturesque inland valleys and mountains. At the Brajkovich winery, we reunited with our cycling friends for a wine tasting. Another short drive brought us to Seoska Kuca, a beautifully restored family farmstead. We learned about the family’s history and explored the picturesque garden, where quince, oranges, lemons and kumquats grew alongside other fruits and vegetables. Once seated, our gracious host entertained us with a musical performance involving an inflated goatskin bagpipe. An engaging dance performance followed as we enjoyed prosciutto toasted over a wood fire; hearty chickpea soup; veal and potatoes cooked under a metal cloche; and heavenly lavender cake with lavender-infused heavy cream.
We were welcomed back aboard as a local group performed harmonies accompanied by guitars and mandolins. Before setting sail for Montenegro, we observed the enchanting glow of Dubrovnik while illuminated.
As we cruised through the picturesque bays and straits toward Kotor, many were on deck early to admire the breathtaking mountain vistas. Our maritime archaeologist pointed out the 19th-century island fortress of Mamula and the three submarine tunnels, built in the 1970s and abandoned after the dissolution of the Yugoslavian Navy in 1992.
Those who ventured out by speedboat zoomed past the dramatic Dinaric Alps heading to the aptly named Blue Cave, home to a colony of bats. Along the way, we admired the red-roofed houses and the mussel farms dotting the coast. Next, we explored Miriste Cove, swimming in its crystal-clear waters and visiting tiny St. Maria church. We also ventured into the Cold War-era submarine tunnel itself, part of an underground network. After pausing over local delicacies, we returned to Kotor to explore its medieval walls.
Others meanwhile explored Kotor’s Old Town, passing the Sea Gate, on which two griffins hold a coat of arms. In the main square, we admired the leaning tower, a reminder of the 1865 earthquake. The nearby Pillar of Shame was once a pillory used to shame wayward citizens. Continuing onward, we saw St. Tryphon’s Cathedral and visited the Maritime Museum to explore Kotor’s nautical heritage.
Several of us were eager to explore the Bay of Kotor’s islands, so we instead took on a boat tour that first stopped at Our Lady of the Rocks. There, a charming church was built on an artificial island created by sinking ships and stacking rocks. We also sailed past St. George, a mysterious island surrounded by stone walls and a cypress canopy, with a historic abbey. We ended the day in the picturesque town of Perast, where we had a fresh seafood lunch along the waterfront. Before returning to the ship, we savoured Iberian ham and explored Kotor at leisure.
The day started slowly after a morning at sea and a time change. Our enrichment program kicked off with a talk on the maritime archaeology of the Caribbean, followed by a discussion on Greek mythology in opera. Shortly after, we arrived in Corfu, where we were greeted by a lively brass band that played throughout lunch.
Some took to the streets of Corfu’s Old Town — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — seeing the 400-year-old New Fortress. After some pork souvlaki with traditional retsina wine, we sampled local cheeses and meats at a family shop and toured the Lazaris Distillery, tasting kumquat liqueurs, limoncello, ouzo, gin and sweet treats. The day concluded with a visit to the Holy Church of Saint Spyridon and a cool gelato treat.
Others set off on a biking adventure through the natural landscapes and inviting villages of Corfu. After a short drive from the harbor to Dasia, we visited Ipsos Beach and followed a narrow alleyway to reach the picturesque village of Saint Marcos. From there, we climbed to the colourful village of Ano Korakiana, where we paused for a traditional snack and refreshments.
Wine enthusiasts among us visited a local winery in Corfu’s countryside, touring its cellar; learning about the winemaking process; and sampling memorable white wines alongside Greek salad, feta cheese, salami and fresh bread. From there, we explored the Old Town, visiting the Town Hall and Holy Church of Saint Spyridon and capping the day with a scoop of gelato.
For a panoramic view of Corfu, others boarded a coach, passing the New Fortress with its winged lion of Saint Mark, the official emblem of Venice. We then descended the city’s main avenue, arriving at Kanoni for a breathtaking view of Pontikonisi (Mouse Island). Our next stop was Anemomylos, a restored windmill that used to be used to produce grain. We concluded our tour with a guided walk through historic Old Corfu, seeing the Esplanade; Palace of St. Michael and St. George; Venetian quarters of Campiello, and Holy Church of Saint Spyridon.
Those seeking a more focused cultural experience visited the Archaeological Museum of Corfu, built to house the archaeological finds from the Temple of Artemis in Corfu. This well-organized museum showcases a variety of fascinating artifacts, including a bronze statue of Hercules discovered by a tourist and ancient items like coins, wine amphorae, dolls, tombstones, and ritual objects. Its centrepiece is the Gorgon, the oldest stone pediment in Greece.
Instead of exploring the city, a few of us spent the day at Barbati Beach, arriving early to secure a prime spot on the shore. After a snack and swim in the clear, warm water, we spotted black and silver fish among the smooth white pebbles.
Late in the afternoon, we reassembled to learn about some weather-related modifications to tomorrow’s adventures.
Strong winds changed our plans, unexpectedly taking us to Argostoli. Early risers took a morning walk around the peninsula. Accompanied by two friendly dogs, we passed through the quiet town centre, admiring its architecture. We reached a pine forest planted in 1940, offering shade as we climbed to the lookout. Thankfully, the clouds cleared, revealing stunning views. This hilltop had once served as a lookout post, with a flag used to warn the village of approaching enemies. Descending the other side, we spotted a buzzard soaring high above, its wings effortlessly gliding on the breeze.
Continuing our walk through an olive grove, we learned about olive oil production as a curious cormorant watched us from a nearby tree. From there, we followed a historic road along the dramatic coastline to reach the Saint Theodore Lighthouse (Fanari Lighthouse), where some of us took a dip in the cool ocean. After a refreshing swim and snack, we continued our journey through a grove of palm and eucalyptus trees. Our path led us to the Katavothres, natural sinkholes where seawater mysteriously disappears underground and emerges on the other side of the peninsula. With our hike complete, we returned to the ship through the pines, bidding farewell to our canine companions.
Those preferring a kayaking adventure had an unforgettable experience in Cephalonia. Despite strong winds from the northwest, we found a sheltered area along the rugged coastline to set out through the shimmering Ionian Sea. After a refreshing swim in the Mediterranean sun, local vendors awaited us with delicious Greek snacks and refreshments.
The rest of us headed to Melessani Cave and cenote, where we took a boat tour of its formations. We then visited the Monastery of Agios Gerasimos, a sacred pilgrimage site, and attended a service in its lovely church and visited the reliquary shrine, which houses the saint’s relics. Our final stop was the Robola wine-growing region, where we toured a cooperative winery and tasted four varietals made from the local grape. As we continued to a seaside lunch, we marvelled at the beauty of Myrtos Beach.
Returning to the port with time to spend at the beach, we revelled in the serene setting and calm turquoise waters. We even had time to catch a nap before attending our farewell reception and dinner aboard.
Stepping into the sun-washed morning, we set off on diverse adventures. Those keen on continuing yesterday’s monastic explorations visited the Monastery of Hosios Loukas, perched high on a mountainside. Ascending to the structure, we saw the remains of a devastating forest fire, contrasting the unscathed sanctuary. Inside the ancient monks’ dining hall, we observed intricate, 800-year-old frescoes. We then visited the crypt of St. Louka, revered for his prophetic vision of Crete’s liberation from Turkish rule, and saw the monks’ former living quarters.
Others explored the Archaeological Museum in Delphi, home to the best-preserved and most important bronze statues of ancient Greece. Arriving at the Archaeological Site of Delphi — a UNESCO World Heritage Site between two towering rocks of Mt. Parnassus — we learned about the revered Olympian deity associated with light, knowledge and harmony.
A group of us instead explored Galaxidi, seeing elegant homes of former sea captains and the colourful fishing boats bobbing in the harbor. We ascended to Agios Nikolaos Church and Agia Paraskevi Church before visiting the Maritime Museum of Galaxidi with its models of vintage sailing vessels, antique rifles and nautical paintings.
Seeking a sweet experience, others ventured to Moka, an apiary where we were warmly welcomed with coffee and pastries. After a presentation on bees, we donned protective gear and visited the hives, learning to identify workers, drones, the queen, the brood and honey within the honeycomb frames. We also gained insight into the threats facing these pollinators and observed the equipment used to extract honey. We then sampled honey sourced from flowers, thyme, and fir and oak trees and explored the potential benefits of bee-derived salves and balms.
Reunited aboard ‘Le Bougainville,’ we set sail for Athens, hearing a presentation on Orpheus and his lyre. We later reached the Corinth Canal, the narrow passage separating the Peloponnese from mainland Greece. A tugboat guided our ship through the 70-foot-wide gap, a challenging feat considering our vessel’s 59-foot beam. To celebrate the occasion, we enjoyed a sumptuous caviar and Greek meze buffet, accompanied by ouzo and Champagne.
Upon exiting the canal, we gathered in the theatre for a slideshow of our journey set to music. After a farewell dinner, we caught a documentary on pirates. To round off the evening, there was late-night musical entertainment in the lounge.
